How many times will I cross a busy road for a box crispy pork dumplings?

The answer is four times. But this is what a girl does when she spends the morning (sponataneously) cleaning the oven, wishing she had just eaten breakfast instead of doing last night’s dishes and doing a half turn to clean that smidge off the oven door and then opening the door to scrub away at a winter’s worth of roast residue. Oh! me and my rampant cleaning methods!

Next time I’ll just call Mr Oven and take a table at Shanghai Night for a plate of dumplings and a bowl of soupy noodles.

With Shanghai Night positioned in the middle of two long traffic lights many people just risk the Liverpool Road traffic to get to the other side. It’s worth it though, if only for a quick order of the pork dumplings. The chinkiang vinegar is a must, which is why I have a bottle at home for when we get take-away dumplngs. The inside is just as yummy as the crispy dumpling skin, mostly because there is a small amount of hot juice which seeps out with the first bite. It tastes like ginger and coats everything into something closely resembling heaven. At least for non-vegans.

I implore you to get yourself to Shanghai Nights to try these dumplings. Just make sure to look to the right, then left and right again before you dash across the road.

It was a grey autumn day last Saturday when I stepped out to meet a friend for a breakfast of yum cha. Breakfast turned out to be brunch by the time the trains decided to turn up, but ride over the bridge was well worth the plethora of dumplings at Kam Fook.

The day reminded me of my time in New York; the last leg of my trip in 2004 with dark grey skies and chilly autumn day threatened our intentions of an excursion outdoors. After a big bowl of home made congee and we decided to walk off a nattering hangover when we came across Beard Papa’s while turning the corner at Astor Place. We needed warmth; and there was something about the bearded old man with a smoking pipe which enticed us into the store. Awaiting us inside was a whole store devoted to custard cream puffs; and so the grey clouds were left behind in place of golden ones. Almost two years later, I still remember the first bite of the vanilla cream puff; crisp choux pastry and a creamy, not too sweet custard centre. It was so tasty, that we returned later in the day with more friends in tow, to procure some treats for afternoon tea. Back at home were were able to get an antiquated espresso machine hot enough for three shots of coffee. Good times.

On Saturday I had every intention to re-visit that lingering memory of a crumbly pastry and creamy custard centre, to be devoured in a heart beat or savoured ever so politely; depending on my mood. The maze that is Chatswood makes it a difficult find; but thanks to Helen’s directions I only have my post yum cha coma to blame. The kiosk front is bright with spot lights and the logo of the famous pipe smoking grandpa, with friendly smirk brings back those fond memories. Luckily there isn’t a line, and the enthusiastic counter girl is welcoming and soon chirps; “How many would you like; 1 for $2.50 or 6 $12.00?” I sheepishly reply that two chocolate and four vanilla is what I’d like; and as she taps away at the register she tells her right hand man the flavour combinations for the next box of cream puffs. The righ hand man uses a contraption to pump the already baked choux puffs with vanilla or chocolate custard, and a second counter hand sprinkles icing sugar or cocoa on the puffs and packs the delicate puffs into their boxes. The vanilla is by far my favourite because of its subtle sweetness. And the chocolate suprises me; as I was expecting a faux flavour; instead it is rich enough not be over powering. I wonder if one could request a custom puff; of both chocolate and vanilla?

Beard Papa’s people are all dressed in pristine white uniforms and yellow neck tie. I quite like their pastry chef hats; thinking one in red would go so well with my polka dot apron at home. But the item I spy enviously are the industrial sized ovens, baking trays full of choux pastry. Just imagine the possibilities! The whole process is faultless, even though one of my chocolate cream puffs has turned into a vanilla while sitting in the blue and yellow stripped box. Not to mind though; the vanilla is the preferred choice for my dinner guests later in the evening, while we try to warm ourselves with a brew of coffee watching a slideshow of New York in 2004.

Beard Papa’s Sweets
K353a Chatswood Westfield
1 Anderson Street, Chatswood, Sydney
Tel: (02) 9412 2214

On a balmy weekday evening, on Devonshire Street, a place that is cool and serves good fare is like a mirage. At number 204 the blue signage glimmers where there is café or bistro style dining from which to choose.

On this occasion we opt for the bistro rather than Mohr Fish Cafe next door, which does a roaring trade any time of the day. Mohr & Mohr is the brainchild of Hans Mohr who does hearty food with flair that leaves the tastebuds humming softly. Inside the air is cool, as the thoughtful wait staff have closed the accordion doors and turned on the air-conditioning. The celebratory champagne arrives chilled almost immediately in a stainless steel bucket, served by our delightful waiter.

For our entrée the Salad of Tomato, Rocket and Goats Fetta with a generous drizzle of basil and olive oil vinaigrette represents the health conscious option. The rocket is the right type of crisp and peppery, and the fetta is creamy enough to add depth to the basil vinaigrette. The only downside is the tomato, which sliced into discs like the cheese allows for an impressive salad stack, but errs on the side of regular supermarket variety.

Next; the Duck & Pistachio Terrine with Waldorf salad and Caper berries; is a reflection of Hans Mohr’s dedication to taking the good parts of the animal and making it into something remarkable. The pistachio compliments the richness of the terrine superably that it makes one wonder how pistachio could not be a permanent fixture in a terrine. The presence of the Waldorf salad and caper berries are welcome palate cleansers; as is the fresh bread served upon arrival.

For the main there is surprise all round with Rudder Fish with Mango Salsa. The fish is plump and sweet, cooked perfectly there is a slight crispiness to the edges, which marry well with the architecturally sound gratin potato. The fruit in the salsa is firm and slightly sweet; a tricky combination to achieve when cooking with the amber gem. One can’t help but search the plate for ‘mohr and mohr’ while nearing the completion of this dish

Finally, for dessert there is Peach and Almond tart. The almond is the foundation for the syrup-encased pears. The raspberry coulis has the balance of sweet and tart perfected. The Chocolate Marquis with hazelnut sauce is just as it should be; rich and decadent; yet simple enough to overlook how sinful a dessert it is.

We almost forget it is the middle of the week; as we recline in coolness as the daylight saving light dims softly. The rattan chairs are comfortable and the interior lighting is a soft glow. Wait staff strike the balance of casual conversation with professionalism; and the magician behind the show comes out to the floor to shake the hands of his happy guests.

Mohr and Mohr

204 Devonshire Street, Surry Hills NSW

T: (02) 83990887